A journey through time from Ávila to Extremadura: Sierra de Gredos, Monfragüe National Park and Mérida

If from the title you think that in Nattule We have created a time machine, I am sorry to inform you that, although we are working on it, it is still impossible. But all is not lost, there are ways to travel to the past without needing Doctor Who's TARDIS. 

Since glacial times, the geography of Spain has been transformed in such a way that today we can enjoy landscapes as impressive and full of nature as the Sierra de Gredos (Ávila) and the Monfragüe National Park (Estremadura), and landscapes that take you to another time like the Roman city of Mérida (Extremadura).

Three places that you will fall in love with, each with its own charms and landscapes. From here, we recommend that you prepare your camera well because you will not want to forget a single image of this trip.

SIERRA DE GREDOS 

To the south of Ávila, nature gave the province an impressive geographic relief of the mountains in which most of its peaks are between 2,300 - 2,500 meters. So it is not surprising that the highest peak in the Autonomous Community of Castilla y León and the Central System is found, precisely, in this Sierra: the Almanzor (2,592 meters high). 

As a curiosity, there is a legend about the name of this wonderful mountain. Almanzor (Al-Mansur) is the Spanish name of a famous Muslim warrior of the 10th century who did not lose any battle against the Catholics. Upon returning from a battle, he went to rest at the Circus of Gredos, located just in front of this peak. At that time there was a myth about that mountain that said that extraordinary sounds came from there coming from the water that flows between its rocks. Since the warrior did not hear them, the shepherds, fearing that he would react badly, said his name out loud, echoing in the mountain. And he was so fascinated that he decided that the mountain would be named after him (if the legend is true, of course, those shepherds deserve a round of applause).

In general, the Sierra de Gredos is a mountain range that has a very different, if not opposite, landscape from north to south. On its northern side there is a very mountainous and rocky mountain range landscape, decorated in gray and white when winter falls. The famous philosopher Miguel de Unamuno described it as the “Stone Heart of Spain”, and a single image is enough to prove him completely right. 

The bed of the Tormes River also passes through this area, which originates in the municipality of Navarredonda de Gredos, and appears as a wake of crystalline water and infuses the landscape with life and movement. Right in front of its birth, the Gredos parador is located, which was the first to open in Spain (1928). A good photo session there is necessary.

In this northern part of the mountain range, one of the most beautiful and important enclaves of the Sierra de Gredos Regional Park is located; the Gredos Circus. It is a glacial cirque, which has the Almanzor peak to its east. And to its northwest, in the lowest part of this glacial cirque, is the Large Lake of Gredos, another of the jewels of the Sierra. Of course, we cannot forget the fauna that lives in this Regional Park such as the ibex, the almanzor salamander or the common Gredos toad; all endemic to the Park.

On the other hand, if we go to the south of the Sierra, we discover land full of slopes and lush vegetation. There is the Tiétar valley, a place that is at a lower altitude and is a break from so many mountains. The river that gives its name to the valley begins in Rozas de Puerto Real and flows into the Tagus River, right at our next stop; Monfragüe National Park. 

MONFRAGÜE NATIONAL PARK

As it says Tourism Extremadura on its official page about the Park: 'The Monfragüe National Park is a must-see point of reference, both for ornithology and Mediterranean flora.' And the statement is not short. In this Park you will find the best example of Mediterranean forest and scrub in the world. It is the Iberian landscape par excellence and that is why it is possible that such a varied fauna and flora live there. 

Since 1979 it was declared a Natural Park, in 1988 as a Special Bird Protection Area (SPA), in 2003 a World Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO and most recently, in 2007 it was declared a National Park. The beauty of this Park lies not only in the landscape, but in the fauna itself, especially the birds of prey that can be seen quite easily flying over the sky during your visit such as griffon vultures, black vultures or imperial eagles among many more birds. And if you are a bird lover, the International Ornithological Tourism Fair (FIO), which is always held at the end of February in Villarreal de San Carlos within the Park, is an essential fair for you.

The site most visited by tourists is Salto del Gitano, at the foot of the Tagus River. A perfect space to spot the griffon vulture, which also has its own legend. You know how much we like a good legend. Imagine, a bandit, the bravest and most feared in the place, was hiding among its rocks. Until one day, when he was being chased by the Civil Guard, he jumped from the end of the other side of the river to the highest rock in front, crossing the Tagus River in a single jump. Such was the impact of one of the guards that he was stunned and we can see him looking towards Salto del Gitano. Hence the very literal name.

Then, if you want to see a more lush landscape full of vegetation, La Dehesa is an area that you have to visit. This is located in the Park's Biosphere Reserve, and there you can see horses, bulls, goats and the country's endemic; the Iberian pig. One of the most beautiful things to appreciate about this Dehesa is the reddish color of the cork oaks after they are uncorked at dusk. The image that surrounds the entire place seems straight out of a story.

But for fairy tale places, we have Mérida. Our last stop on this journey through time, which we have contemplated through nature, for now, contemplate it from the vestiges of the Roman city of Mérida.

MERIDA

As soon as you arrive in Mérida (or Augusta Emerita) you wonder if you have gone too far and ended up in Italy, or if you are doing a circuit through Europe with a stop in Rome. That's because everywhere you look there is some remnant of the ancient Roman Empire reminding you that the foundations of that time have no point of comparison with the ones we use now. It is likely that your building will no longer be there 400 years from now, but the Roman Theater of Mérida from the 16-15th century BC will still be standing.

But not only will you see traces of the Roman Empire here, but you will also see monuments of the Visigothic, Arab and Christian culture that continue with us until we reach the modern buildings that we know today. If the previous thing we have seen in nature has been a journey through time before man laid his first stone; The city of Mérida reminds you of the many visitors who contributed their grain of sand to the Peninsula. 

There is a lot to see in Mérida if you love history and architecture: the aforementioned Roman Theater, the Amphitheater, the Aqueduct of Miracles, the Roman Circus, the Temple of Diana, the Arab Alcazaba, the Roman Bridge, the Arch of Trajano or the Casa del Mitreo are just some of the examples that you can see as you move through the city. With this information, it is no surprise that the capital of Extremadura is a World Heritage Site, right?

Of all the monuments to see in the city, there are two essential ones that you have to see before leaving the city, either for their grandeur or their fame: the Roman Theater and the Amphitheater.

The Roman Theater is one of the best preserved buildings in Mérida, and one of the most spectacular. It was built between the year 16 or 15 BC sponsored by the consul of Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa. It had the capacity to contain 6,000 spectators in its stands. The overall appearance shows the greatness of which the Romans were proud. Some scenes of the typical Roman lifestyle were represented there.

But for the spectators, the real fun came from the Amphitheater or the Circus. A show wasn't a good show if there wasn't blood involved. 'These Romans are crazy' I imagine Obélix saying as he did so many times in his comics. The Amphitheater was built in the year 8 BC, and is currently the most visited place by tourists. This is where the fierce battles took place between gladiators, between animals and even representations of ancient wars were made.

Both, if not all, deserve to be visited with a professional guide so as not to miss any details of what your eyes are seeing. Every corner keeps a story, and Mérida keeps many and from different periods. Would you like to discover them?