The linden of the world. A bathtub full of foam with Sinatra in the background. A day when nothing hurts you. That is Nepal, the country of eight thousand. The Himalayas are not a mountain range, but the prospect of nature. If you follow the directions you will walk its trails with your eyes set on the peaks. In Nepal, walking with your head down is the worst option.

Views of Machapuchare from Pokhara

In Piazza San Marco you want to sit and drink coffee, but in Venice there is no mountain waiting for you. Since 1950, the Himalayas have been an irresistible attraction for mountaineers seeking to summit one of its emblematic peaks and also for XL hikers who are not satisfied with the ecotourism destinations always.

He trekking to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) is one of the most important treks in Nepal. Also one of the least complicated, although it is not recommended for those who have not graduated in effort.

From Pokhara city, it will take you 6 days to reach the base camp. Nattule offers you an exciting round trip in 9 days through these mythical mountains.

On the route to Annapurna: How to get there (and back)

1. Road to picturesque Landruk  

You must first obtain permits to enter the Annapurna Conservation Area and the TIMS card issued by the Nepal Trekking Agencies Association at the Pokhara tourist office. Then, drive to the circuit's starting point, Phedi. The taxi is the best option.

From this tiny town you will begin to climb some stairs to the town of Dhampus, located at 1,750 meters above sea level. From time to time, stop to enjoy the wonderful views.

Views towards the Himalayas from Dhampus

The peaks of the colossi that surround you seem close, but nothing could be further from the truth. The ascent will take you about two hours and it is advisable to be in shape, as the slopes are quite steep. Pay attention to the way the locals walk. Imitating them will help you overcome these slopes full of steps.

The trail continues to Pothana (1,990 meters), one of the usual stopping places for trekkers. Even if the climb tires you out, the landscape seen from the finish line is worth it. From Pothana you can delight in the views of the peaks of South Annapurna, Machapuchare, Hiunchuli and Lamjung Himal.

Pothana

After passing Pothana, you face a steep descent to Bichok through a rhododendron forest, the national flower of Nepal; and then hundreds of steep rock steps to reach Tolka.

Many hikers end their day there, but if you make the extra effort you can reach Landruk, a picturesque village nestled on the mountainside from which you can look out over the Modi River Valley. It is worth a walk through the slate streets of this town inhabited by descendants of Mongolians from the gurung ethnic group.

2. Slowly to the Jhinu Danda hot springs

In two days you are not going to learn Nepali, but you must memorize a key word: bistari. It means slowly. It is recommended that you start walking like an old man if you want to reach your destination wanting more.

From the beautiful valley where you are, take the path north that goes to the Chhomrong sanctuary. The other trail takes you towards Ghandruk, situated on the opposite side of the Modi River.

The road is flanked by hills dotted with rice fields. If you are lucky and the day looks sunny you will be able to appreciate the impact of the luminosity on the landscape.

Rice fields in the Modi Valley

You will pass through small forests as you descend to the riverbed again.

The trail runs parallel to the river. Several times you will have to cross its planked and slippery floating walkways until you reach Jhinu Danda.

In Jhinu you can choose to visit one of its tea houses and enjoy the views of the crop fields or bathe in what the Nepalese call tatopani, which means hot water. These are free hot springs, ideal for after the walk.

3. The rhododendron forest: Sinuwa

After relaxing in the waters of Jhinu Danda, another wonderful day awaits you to Chhomrong. The ascent will take you approximately an hour and a half. Chhomrong is a sizable village, with several wooden lodges, restaurants overlooking the Annapurna and the Machapuchare, and an office where you must go to seal your permit.

The road goes through the town. You have to climb around 3,000 steps to cross the river and face the climb to Sinuwa. In this area, which runs through rhododendron forests covered in ferns, the path is quite busy.

Chhomrong

In addition to hikers, you will come across porters, donkeys, buffaloes and even children heading to school.

4. Among bamboo forests

After Sinuwa, get used to the idea that accommodation and amenities will begin to become scarce. The usual thing in these remote areas is to spend the night on comfortable mats on the dining room floor or improvise a small campsite.

The road in this area is easy to travel and beautiful to see. You will ascend gently through bamboo forests until passing through the villages of Kuldihar, Bamboo and, finally, the small village of Dobhan. Half an hour from Dobhan, next to an impressive waterfall, stands a small shrine home to Panchhi Baraha.

Keep your eyes open, as you may cross paths with a Nepalese gray langur monkey. And, if fortune smiles on you, with a specimen of red panda, present in the Annapurna Conservation Area. You will also find this species in neighboring Tibet, being one of the most notable animals of China.

Nepalese red panda

Afterwards, you must climb some very tough slopes until you reach the Himalayan Hotel. In this section of the road the wooded areas lead to clearings, which increases the feeling of immensity that generates the environment.

5. The sacred mountain: Machapuchare

When you leave the Himalayan Hotel behind you will begin to ascend through a more arid terrain than the previous one that heads towards the Machapuchare Base Camp, located at 3,100 meters of altitude. There is sometimes a risk of avalanches on this stretch of the trail, so be aware of trail conditions before heading out.

An hour after leaving the hotel, you will arrive at Hinku Cave, a reference point for mountain expeditions and, occasionally, for langur monkeys. From there, if you follow the route that passes through Deurali, it is possible to find small shrines.

After about three hours you will have arrived at the camp. Machapuchare is a sacred mountain for the Nepalese because it is the abode of Shiva. Since the 1950s, climbing has been strictly prohibited.

Views of Machapuchare from Annapurna

The views are spectacular. You can see the Hiunchuli, South Annapurna, Annapurna I, Annapurna III, Gandharva Chuli and Gangapurna mountains. In these remote areas the Snow Leopard, in addition to its main prey, the bharal or Himalayan blue sheep.

Before facing the last climb of the trekking to Annapurna Base Camp It is advisable to spend the night here to acclimatize to the altitude and avoid altitude sickness. If the weather is clear, I recommend that you go out in the middle of the night to enjoy the sky.  

The snow leopard is the most emblematic feline of Nepal. The one from Spain is the lynx. Get to know him with this activity to observe the Iberian lynx in Andújar.

6. Ravine towards the gates of Annapurna

There is only an hour and a half walk to your destination. Even so, it is advisable to get up early, as it is worth enjoying the sunrise in these places, when the mountain tops turn orange tones.

Here, the valley narrows to give way to a steep ravine until you cross the gates of the Annapurna sanctuary, formed by Hiunchuli on the left and Machapuchare on the right.

As you pass the yellow sign that welcomes you to the Annapurna Base Camp (4,130 meters) the spectacular view of the peaks of some of the highest mountains in the world appears before you.

Annapurna Base Camp (4,130 meters) Himalayas, Nepal

Afterwards, it's time to head back to Dobhan. If the sky is clear, a spectacular landscape will accompany you on the descent.

7. A well-deserved dinner after the effort

After two days at more than 4,000 meters of altitude, surrounded by snow-capped peaks, glaciers and immensity and where the conditions and lack of oxygen prevail, you will have a more complete perception of this area so full of contrasts.

The open spaces of the summits will give way to shady groves full of hanging plants, mosses and orchids on your return to the Modi Valley. There is no room here for any color other than green.

Groves on the way to the Modi Valley

After having tested your knees on the slopes and walking on loose stones of the Annapurna climb You will almost miss the stone steps and the descent will be bearable. This journey will take you to Chhomrong, at 2,170 meters, after passing through the towns of Bamboo and Sinuwa again.

In Chhomrong you can have tea, drink a beer or cross paths with groups of schoolchildren dressed in English heritage uniforms, coming or going to school. Also shower with hot water. There are restaurants with a varied menu for dinner and good rooms to rest.

8. The Ghurjung Terraces

From Chhomrong, instead of taking the path to Landruk that you took on the way, you can take the path that starts on the right and goes into the valley of the Kyumun River. A little further on, you again have two options. The first of them will take you about 4 hours, through forested slopes to Ghurjung, a small town settled on terraces on the edge of the river. Continuing you will find other towns, Tadapani and Bhaisikharka, finally after a gentle climb you will see Ghandruk.

Ghurjung Terraces

The second option is to take a detour to the left to cross the river at Kimrong Danda, which will shorten the path to your destination considerably.

Ghandruk is a pretty village perched on the mountainside, with several monasteries and an ancient museum of Gurung culture that you can visit at your leisure in the afternoon.

Annapurna Massif from Ghandruk

9. Return to the city of the great lake: Pokhara

What remains is a descent, which brings you closer to the Modi channel again, although in this last section you will go along the opposite margin to that of the first two days. Remember what you have experienced these days as you descend.

A bridge over the river and a flight of stairs take you to Naya Pul: your destination. Here you can regain strength and see how calm you are. Surely better than when you left. From this town, a vehicle will take you back to Pokhara, the beginning and end of your adventure.

Fewa Lake, Pokhara

There is no greater feeling of improvement than successfully reaching a summit. So that you can enjoy that emotion again, we propose this Mount Toubkal climbing activity in Morocco.

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An Eastern proverb states that when the wise man points to the moon, the fool looks at the finger. In the West we know that the finger is more important than the moon. The mountains of Nepal would not be as beautiful without your eyes nor as tough without your legs. No peak is comparable to a Sherpa.

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