From Chamonix to the empire of ice and granite: the legendary Goûter route to Mont Blanc

Everest aside, the peak par excellence is Mont Blanc, emblem of mountaineering in Europe. Mountaineering is not just something for experts, but any mountaineer knows that, as in other Adventure activities, prudence and courage are required in equal parts. Furthermore, the climb to the top of Mont Blanc is a serious, difficult and magnificent excursion. Its beauty is only comparable to its difficulty.

There are several possible routes to reach the top of this colossus. Of all of them, one of the most frequented is the Goûter route, so called because it passes through the Dôme du Goûter, a hill with a gradual slope that, seen from afar, appears to contain a dome inside.

This route is not the hardest, nor the most technical, but it is one of the most spectacular. For a mountaineer there are few sights comparable to contemplating the sunrise from the top. However, achieving it is complex. In the ascension there are three really dangerous steps. For this reason it is necessary to climb with a teammate. Or, failing that, hire a mountain guide, a less expensive option than recommended.

Nattule summarizes the five key steps to reach the roof of the Alps:

1. The approach

The cradle of European mountaineering is in Chamonix, a small French town located very close to the borders with Switzerland and Italy. To begin your adventure you must take the Bellevue cable car.

The ideal thing is to leave early to try to catch the first trip on this cable car with beautiful views. The journey will allow you to enjoy a 360° panoramic view of the spectacular landscape. It is not called Bellavista in vain. Bellevue station is at the end of the route.

The Mont Lachat Valley © Arkaitz Morales

Once there, you must take the tram Mont Blanc. Try to enter last so you can be one of the first to leave. More than anything because the tram usually runs first and last thing of the day full of climbers who are going to begin the ascent and those who are returning after completing it. It is advisable to leave quickly to avoid blockages at the Mont Lachat station, the end of the journey.

Another factor to take into account is altitude. It is important that you acclimatize well the days before so that the climb afterwards does not take its toll on you.

Once you make sure you have everything under control, it's time to start walking.

Tram in Mont Lachat © Arkaitz Morales

2. The desert of Pierre Ronde

From the end of the tram to the top there are three refuges: the Eagle's Nest, Tête Rousse and Goûter. Based on your physical condition, age and level of acclimatization, you should plan your route carefully. However, the best option is to leave early to reach Gouter the first day and try the climb the next morning.

When passing through the Eagle's Nest, you must go east to go around the steepest slope that rises between this refuge and the Tête Rousse. It is in this place where one leaves the sparse vegetation of the high mountains and begins to enter the kingdom of snow so as not to leave it until their return. Now you understand why they call it the White Mountain.

The road, if not covered by snow, is full of stones and rocks. The landscape is desolate, which explains why the place is called the Pierre Ronde Desert. If it snows, it is not uncommon to see more cautious climbers begin to retreat.

 Start of the ascent © Arkaitz Morales

After this first section you will have to put on the crampons to improve grip. The route here is full of zigzag sections. An ascending, smooth and constant edge will take you to the Tête Rousse refuge, at 3,167 meters. It will take you just over 2 hours to get there. The 800 meters of elevation gain are not a big obstacle, but the climb is complicated if you have to fight strong gusts of wind or even a snow storm. Consider it a warning, ascension is complex.

It is advisable to drink frequently and take something solid from time to time. Upon reaching Tête Rousse you will be able to see for the first time the beautiful ridge called Bionnassay. From this small ledge one can observe the hard climb that still remains, which is why it is a good place to assess one's strength and decide whether to stay in this refuge or dare to reach the next one.

Tête Rousse shelter and Bionassay ridge © Arkaitz Morales

3. The Great Corridor

Leaving the Tête Rousse, you skirt around a small glacier that bears the same name to face the large slope that appears on your right, which begins to straighten out to climb some terrain under the long ridge that ascends towards the Aiguille du Dôme.

This section is provided with a cable fixed to the rock. The road is uncomfortable and narrow. You have to remember that it is a round trip section, so you have to leave space so that those who are going down, usually at high speed, do not push you.

About halfway up you have to cross the Great Corridor. This is nothing more than an immense chimney through which rocks and stones usually fall due to climbers who go out of their way. So you must have maximum concentration. Of course, the use of a helmet is mandatory. You have to cross as quickly as possible without losing sight of the chimney. You will also have to calculate the speed of the climbers in front of you so as not to catch up with them and be exposed to landslides without shelter.

The Great Corridor © Arkaitz Morales

Once this stage has been passed, the path steepens and narrows. It's like walking down the spine of a dinosaur. The track here is very worn and the rocks are unstable. You must be extremely careful until you reach the Goûter refuge, located at 3,817 meters above sea level.

This refuge is an emblematic place in the climb to Mont Blanc. There you can meet some mountaineering legends or several generations of mountain guides. Like all mountain huts, Goûter has photographs of the good times inside. Take the opportunity to have a good dinner to regain your strength while enjoying the beauty of the sunset from this unique place.

It is also important that you go to bed early, as you will have to get up at dawn to continue the climb. The bunk beds are located in a communal room and, although the nerves of the climb and, perhaps, the snoring of a mountaineer do not help you fall asleep, you should try to rest as much as possible to face the next day with energy.

The Goûter refuge © Arkaitz Morales

Are you getting the urge to take up mountaineering? No problem, because in Spain you have very good winter progression courses, like this one from La Rioja.

4. The Dôme du Goûter

Breakfast is served at 3 in the morning. When you go out at that time, the temperature is extreme and you must have a headlamp to illuminate the path of footprints that guide you to the top. Crampons are mandatory to leave the shelter.

At night you can see the row of lights under the stars. A magnificent picture. Once outside the shelter you must climb to the Dôme du Goûter. The slope is exhausting and climbing it at night does not help. But all this is done to be able to see the sunrise from the highest possible point. The slope has two or three places that merge with the summit, so it may seem like you will never reach it, but don't despair. You are getting closer to your goal.

Once you have crossed the Dôme du Goûter you will pass in front of the Vallot refuge. This is a small unguarded shelter that should only be used in an emergency. At that time, the sky will begin to clear. You can make a short stop here to drink and rest for a few minutes to enjoy the excellent view of Mont Maudit, which is to the west.

View of Mont Maudit at dawn © Arkaitz Morales

5. The final edge

When you start the path again you will go to Les Bosses (The Humps), two peaks chained to each other. So you have to climb the first and descend from it to ascend the second. On a vertical wall the first rays of sun will begin to reflect your shadow.

Once you leave Les Bosses comes the most exposed and dangerous section of the entire route. The winding path narrows even more and approaches the precipice, from which you are separated by 50 centimeters. Therefore, you have to be especially cautious. At that point any false step has serious consequences.

The Bosses © Arkaitz Morales

The path narrows even more on the final ridge between two slopes of between 1,000 and 1,500 meters of elevation gain. The order of ascension is followed, so those who go up have preference over those who go down. Therefore, the second must move away as much as possible and wait for those who are ascending to surpass their position.

The final ridge extends until it becomes a straight line to its summit. Concentration at this point must be maximum, since surely your strength is already diminished and your steps become slower.

There are only a few last meters left to reach the most famous peak in Europe.

First thing in the morning you will have achieved your goal: the top of Mont Blanc, whose beauty is inferior to that of the panoramic view that can be seen from it.

Last steps to the top © Arkaitz Morales

If you have already thought about it completely, don't miss this mountaineering initiation activity in the Sierra de Gredos, where you will learn all the basic techniques of this discipline.

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The sofa is to the trip what the chain is to the slave. From the sofa it is easy to climb Mont Blanc. The documentary viewer reaches the top without numb fingers because on the screen the cold is always felt by others. The couch potato does not know that the cold of the Alps is a magnificent option. If Nattule suggests that you choose it, it is because he knows that, unlike hammocks, icebergs cause tachycardia.

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