Explorando el Portugal más rural: 6 destinos que no conocías y tienes muy cerca

Julia Campos
Julia Campos

Hay parajes hechos para explorar con corbata. Parajes en los que desentonan el sudor, el pantalón corto y el bidón de agua, en los que esperas encontrar una institutriz en cada recodo. Enclaves como los del Parque Natural Sintra-Cascais, que parece diseñado para que lo transiten personajes con cinco apellidos. Tú solo tienes uno o dos, pero en esta maravilla natural portuguesa encajarás a la perfección. Quién te ha dicho a ti que no eres un aristócrata.

Cierto que ni utilizas el cubierto de plata con el rodaballo ni te preocupa el vaivén de la bolsa de Nueva York ni haces que te sirvan el té en la Sala Azul. Pero, a la hora de vivir una experiencia de ecoturismo, buscas la excelencia y la comodidad. Por eso tienes que venir a Sintra-Cascais, un espacio donde la naturaleza parece haberse doctorado en protocolo: todo te lo pone fácil.

El enclave, repleto de lagunas, arboledas, acantilados y dunas, se extiende desde la Sierra de Sintra, situada a 30 kilómetros de Lisboa, hasta los acantilados del cabo da Roca, el punto más occidental de la Europa continental. Una vez aquí descubres el motivo por el que la realeza, la nobleza, la burguesía y el pueblo optan por este enclave declarado Paisaje Cultural Patrimonio de la Humanidad.

Sierra de SintraSierra de Sintra

El clima es otro de sus atractivos. La temperatura elegante es aquella que te permite llevar la camisa arremangada, pero sin el cuello desabrochado. La de Sintra-Cascais, una de las zonas más húmedas de Portugal, es el paradigma de la elegancia ambiental. Es suave, ambigua, ligeramente fresca, tímidamente cálida. Idónea para disfrutar de seis rutas:

1. Villa de Sintra

Esta ciudad se encuentra situada en el extremo noreste del Parque Natural. El trayecto es sencillo desde Lisboa. Puedes hacerlo en la excursión opcional del maravilloso Tour España & Lisboa de 12 días que sale desde Lisboa.

El centro histórico de Sintra es un buen lugar para comenzar tu visita a la sierra. Desde allí surgen varios senderos que te llevarán a los puntos más emblemáticos del Parque, como el castillo de los Moros, el convento de los Capuchos o el parque de la Pena.

Castillo de los Moros y Palacio de la PenaCastillo de los Moros y palacio de la Pena al fondo

La presencia del hombre es más perceptible en la villa que en otras partes de la sierra, pero no impide que residan numerosas especies de aves que aletean por los jardines y arboledas de la ciudad, como los de la Quinta da Regaleira.

Quinta-Da-RegaleiraQuinta da Regaleira

2. Parque de la Pena

El nombre parece sacado de un fado, pero el parque de la Pena te alegra el día. Puedes llegar directamente en coche o coger un autobús desde la villa de Sintra. Si lo tuyo es el ejercicio, también hay rutas que pueden hacerse a pie o en bicicleta partiendo desde el Palacio Nacional de Sintra o desde el centro de información del Parque Natural.

Este parque es en realidad un extenso jardín que rodea al palacio de la Pena, construido en 1838 por Fernando II sobre un antiguo convento de frailes jerónimos. El conjunto constituye uno de los monumentos más visitados de la Sierra de Sintra. El jardín es una convención de especies botánicas de todo el mundo que cobija también numerosos animales.  

El valle de los Lagos se encuentra en la zona norte del parque de la Pena, al oeste de la colina sobre la que se alza el palacio. En sus 6 lagos, ordenados de norte a sur conviven cisnes y garzas reales.

Valle de los Lagos en el parque de la Pena

No te pierdas la oportunidad de descubrir otra bonita zona de Portugal en bicicleta, como en esta ruta por la ría Formosa.

3. Laguna Azul

Para llegar, dirígete en coche desde Sintra por la nacional 9 en dirección a Cascais. Luego toma la carretera que sale de Linhó hacia Malveira da Serra. La siguiente parada es la laguna Azul. La opción de los senderos desde Sintra también es recomendable. Durante el trayecto, atravesarás zonas de bosque en las que encontrarás secuoyas, tejos y acebos, entre otras especies.

Laguna Azul © Gonçalo Almeida

Este es uno de los lugares preferidos por los visitantes para merendar. Así que, haz lo que vieres.

4. Peninha

El santuario de Peninha está situado en el punto más alto de la Sierra de Sintra, que no pasaría el corte para la selección del Himalaya: tiene sólo 488 metros. Se accede a él por la carretera de Malveira tras dejar a la izquierda el convento de los Capuchos. Los últimos 200 metros hasta la cima sirven para hacer piernas.

Santuario de PeninhaSantuario de Peninha

Al norte del santuario, hay enormes rocas que en invierno son frecuentadas por pequeñas aves como el acentor alpino. En la ladera, la vegetación está dominada por pinos y cipreses.

La reina del lugar es el águila perdicera, que no tiene súbditos: en la cima de Peninha habita la única pareja censada de esta rapaz que queda en el Parque.

Por suerte, hay otros puntos del país donde hay más posibilidades de divisar a esta espléndida ave. Podrás hacerlo, por ejemplo, en la frontera con Extremadura, disfrutando de un paseo en barco por el Parque Natural del Tajo Internacional.

5. Cabo da Roca

“Donde la tierra acaba y el mar comienza”.

Cabo da RocaCabo da Roca

Con esta inscripción grabada sobre un monumento en forma de cruz son recibidos los visitantes que se acercan hasta cabo da Roca. Allí, el Parque Natural de Sintra-Cascais se corta abruptamente para dar paso a un acantilado de 150 metros de altura que los portugueses de antaño consideraban el fin del mundo.

Para ti, es otro alto en el camino que puedes alcanzar fácilmente. Está a apenas 20 kilómetros de Sintra y a 15 de Cascais.

Lo primero que verás será el famoso faro que gobierna el cabo, y que hoy en día funciona como oficina de información turística. Como nota curiosa, allí puedes pedir un certificado acreditativo de haber llegado a los confines de la tierra.

Pero, ante todo, el cabo da Roca es un buen lugar para avistar aves marinas, destacando la presencia del  cormorán moñudo, varias especies de pardelas y rapaces como el halcón peregrino, de los que quedan pocos ejemplares en el Parque.

Pardela sombríaLa pardela sombría visita las costas de Sintra en verano

Desde el cabo parten varios senderos para recorrer a pie la línea de la costa. Caminando en dirección norte a lo largo del acantilado llegarás a Praia Grande, donde es posible observar huellas de dinosaurio.

6. Cabo Raso

En la ruta de la costa hacia el sur, muy cerca de Cascais, encuentras el cabo Raso.

Al contrario que el cabo da Roca, esta formación rocosa tiene muy poca altura sobre el mar. Por esa razón, está casi desprovisto de árboles y podrás disfrutar de unas inmejorables vistas de la costa.

Gracias a las aves marinas que lo habitan, el cabo es un lugar de referencia para los ornitólogos. Pero, además, con algo de suerte, es posible ver incluso delfines. Aunque seguramente tendrás más fortuna si decides participar de una actividad de observación de delfines en el Algarve.

Pero el ecoturismo no es lo único que puede realizarse en este lugar. Los amantes de los deportes acuáticos, en especial los surfistas, se reúnen en el cabo Raso para disfrutar del tamaño que alcanzan las olas en la playa del Guincho, situada un par de kilómetros al norte.

Playa del GuinchoPlaya del Guincho

Si continuas el camino dirección a Cascais, llegarás a la Boca do Inferno, un extraño paisaje creado por el derrumbamiento de una cueva a causa de la erosión del mar.

Boca do InfernoLa curiosa geografía de Boca do Inferno

Puesto que Sintra-Cascais es un Parque Natural de cuento, el de la Cenicienta le viene al pelo. Más que nada porque Portugal es la hermana guapa a la que las demás no le reconocen la perfección de sus facciones. Este maravillo espacio protegido aclara que con este país la geografía ha sido más benévola que la historia.

1.625 comentarios

  1. Acabo de descubrir la web y me encantan tus articulos. Fui a Portugal hace un par de años y me da rabia no haberte leido antes. Aunque ahora me da la excusa perfecta para organizar otro viaje por alli. Animo a todos que lo visiten!

  2. Muchas gracias, Sylvia. Me alegro de que te haya gustado el artículo y espero que puedas volver a Portugal pronto. En mi opinión, la Sierra de Sintra debería ser parada obligada para todo el que visite ese país

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