Temple of canoeing in Spain: 6 keys to understanding the Sella
In the same way that the New York marathon is the first of its kind, the descent of the Sella River is the most relevant of those carried out in the world. Its fame derives from the sensational nature through which it runs and its consolidation in the sports calendar. For more than 75 years, the waters of this spectacular Asturian river have become a place of pilgrimage for canoeing lovers for one day a year.
Professional and amateur paddlers of all nationalities meet every first Saturday in August to travel the last 20 kilometers of this river, until it meets the waters of the Cantabrian Sea, in search of excitement and prestige.
© Pepe Rubiera (Asturias Tourism)
But descending the course of the Sella River is much more than a competition.
If you are one of those who prefer canoeing to the car, sailing the waters of the Sella will surely become your annual option. I invite you to navigate the course of a river ideal for fans of rowing and Adventure activities to visit the land of the Virgin of Covadonga.
Descent of the Sella: A step-by-step guide
Nattule gives you six keys to enjoy its waters, whether or not you cross the finish line on the Ribadesella bridge:
1. The origin of the competition
“Keep the public silent (encore)
and listen to our word (bis)
By order of Don Pelayo
after measuring the waters,
presiding over the god Neptune
the acts of this Olympics…”
Little could I imagine Dionisio de la Huerta, promoter of the descent, when he proposed to his friends that they take a quiet canoe ride along the Piloña River, that that peaceful idea would be the seed of the most important canoeing competition in the world.
The race has successfully overcome obstacles out of the water. Not even the break caused by the Civil War could put an end to its momentum, so after the war the Descent of the Sella re-emerged with greater strength and attracted canoeists from all over Europe.
© Damian Arienza
The exit is no longer in Coya, not even on the same river, but the enthusiasm of those who travel the Sella today is the same as that of the pioneers of that day in 1929: to test oneself, have a good time and enjoy the nature.
Now it's not just a competition and we don't have to wait until August to do it. Anyone who visits Asturias, on any date, can do at least part of the descent, although being part of the Canoe Festival It is an almost unique experience.
This is demonstrated by the participation of thousands of canoeists from various countries and the festive atmosphere that accompanies the race. You can witness the emotional exit marked by the verses that De la Huerta composed and then take your kayak to follow the participants down the river.
© David Fernandez Molina
2. Nature that embraces the river
Not only the party surrounds the Sella. The route downstream of this river will take you through one of the most beautiful places in Spain. Not in vain, the Sella riverbed is the most important in eastern Asturias.
Its birthplace is located in the heart of the National Park of Peaks of Europe, in an area known as the source of Hell, in the province of León. The proximity between this point and the sea, barely 42 kilometers, and the existing slope make the Sella a short river with steep slopes, very attractive for sailing.
© Enrique Bárzana Viego
In its upper section, the Sella forms one of the main landscape enclaves of Asturias. The river runs through Beyos Gorge, an impressive gorge about 20 kilometers long that is part of the Ponga Natural Park. Don't miss the opportunity to get to know this wonderful natural space with this hiking activity through the heart of the Asturian paradise.
The area that descends, although close to the Cantabrian Sea, continues to show nature in all its splendor. As a canoeist, you will navigate through thick forests of maple, oak and ash trees. If you pay attention, it is very possible that you will see a specimen of tiragaña, a small carnivorous plant of violet flowers which grows on the shady and humid slopes of the banks of the Sella.
© Carmen FT
3. The other inhabitants of the Sella
Nature lovers find in the upper part of the Sella a refuge for the most emblematic species of the region. iberian fauna. It is a prominent place where to see the Iberian wolf, the brown bear, the bearded vulture and the Cantabrian capercaillie. Other more unknown faunal treasures are the iberian desman (an Iberian endemism that resembles a water mole) and the long-tailed salamander, one of the most endangered amphibians on the Peninsula.
All of these species can be found in other parts of Asturias and you will surely see some of them if you sign up for this activity to discover Somiedo in spring.
In addition, the Sella River also stands out for being one of the last refuges for the spawning of salmon, trout and trout that seek the high reaches and most inaccessible areas at the end of spring.
© Victor Sanchez
The large beech forests and groves of yew and holly trees add a touch of color to these wild areas. If you don't like crowds, it is better to visit this area outside of the summer season, which is very crowded, so you can enjoy all these natural treasures. Wildlife observation and hustle and bustle are bitter enemies, as you well know.
The middle part of the river is more navigable, with deeper waters, and is where most of the International Descent route takes place. It is the habitat of otters, small birds such as dippers and some species of birds of prey that take shelter in the thickets of the banks.
4. The note of emotion
The route along the Sella seems simple, but for those who do not know it, it hides some sections that can complicate the descent.
The rapids of the Devil's rage and those at the old Santianes dam can rock your kayak. The water will begin to gain strength after the Toraño bridge and you will have to look for the most suitable path among the rocks that are scattered along the channel to avoid capsizing. Between each other, the long La Requexada straight, which has one of the deepest wells in the Sella, is a privileged space for spectators.
© David R. Moreno
A little earlier, the area of Picu de la Vieya It is another of the most interesting. Here, the river suddenly narrows to give way to other rapids that you will have to fight. The name comes from a nearby peak, which you can see on the right bank.
Far from making it dangerous, however, these small difficulties only add excitement to the tour. Show that you are capable of fighting them and join this activity to descend the Sella by canoe.
© Asturias Tourism
5. The encounter with the Cantabrian Sea
About 4 kilometers from the end of the route, the river meets the Cantabrian Sea and the estuary is formed. The action of the tides makes this part of the descent different every year and you have to put more effort into paddling to cope with the force of the water. For this reason, active tourism companies usually end the route 5 kilometers earlier, in Llovio.
© asturiasguiada.com
If you are one of the brave ones who take part in the competition, you will pass through an area classified as Special Protection for Birds and a Site of Community Interest.
In the middle of the estuary, the island of La Boticaria, a few meters from the mouth, is a key point for canoeists. When the tide is high, it is possible to go around it on its right bank. However, if it is low, exceeding this point can be difficult. Some years, canoeists have been allowed to cross the island on foot, with their boats at their own free will.
© Eduardo Aquilare
6. The alternative
Paddling is not the only way to enjoy the Sella. For those who are not very athletic, on the day of the International Downhill there is the possibility of taking the river train, a convoy that runs parallel to the river throughout the entire route.
The departure is in Arriondas, just after the canoeists, and follows them throughout the descent. It makes some strategic stops so that the dry land residents of Rio de Janeiro can contemplate the exploits of the champions.
© Begoña Seijo Marcos
The train thus becomes the best platform for those who want to be part of this effortless adventure.
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Just as we are all men, but not all Brad Pitt; or all women, but few Scarlett Johansson, there are many descents, but none comparable to that of the Sella River. The traveler who dares to travel its vertiginous course will be so captivated that, from this adventure onwards, he will look at the lakes with disdain.
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Hi Ignacio. I've liked the post. The images are impressive and you have had to put a lot of work into the drawings (they are really cool). Your text came to mind last summer when we went to Arriondas to descend the Sella by canoe after passing through Llanes, which was our sleeping place. The experience in Asturias was sensational and we have promised to return to those parts. Greetings and congratulations.
What a great article Ignacio!! We loved the passion with which you have narrated every detail about the Descent of the Sella. The truth is that this competition, declared to be of International Tourist Interest, attracts millions of participants (and non-participants) from different parts of the world every year. It's something amazing! And thanks to posts like this it is increasing every year! We appreciate it!!
Business greed and the disdain of the Public Administration are turning the Sella tourist decline into something similar to a dangerous San Fermín bull run.