Where to see the Iberian wolf in Spain: 17 natural parks to observe it

Alber Moya
Alber Moya

If you have not been able to give a goal pass to Pelé, nor embark with Magellan, nor be an altar boy for Francisco, come to the route of observation of the iberian wolf so you feel close to something big.

It is not just any route for any animal. The wolf is much more than a dog that lives in a commune, eats when it can and howls in freedom.

Iberian wolf © Andoni Canela

The 17 natural spaces in Spain on which this species lives are not limited places where the wolf knows what time it has dinner. As usually happens in ecotourism activities, You have to go to them equipped with good binoculars and patience, and also know when the wolves come out and start their day.

One thing is for sure: the wait is worth it. Not surprisingly, waiting for sunrise or sunset gives you the opportunity to see wildlife with the right lighting.   

Until the middle of the last century, the presence of the wolf was significant throughout the Peninsula, but Little Red Riding Hood has done a lot of damage to the species. The prelude to fear, which is prevention, explains the mortality caused by man. Indiscriminate persecution has almost achieved their extermination. However, if we can approach the question of how many wolves there are currently in Spain, WWF tells us that:

"The last available wolf census estimated its population in Spain between 2,000 and 2,500 Iberian wolves and in total throughout Europe there are approximately 12,000 wolves."

So Spain offers the possibility of see the iberian wolf from strategic enclaves and taking interpretive routes of its habitat with experienced guides in the 10 regions in which it lives. Here we show you a guide and map for wolf observation in Spain:

1. Sierra de la Culebra, emblem of the Iberian wolf (Zamora)

Where are there more wolves? Well, we have chosen to place Zamora in first position for that very reason. Because with 65,891 hectares it is the point in the country (even in all of Europe) with the highest concentration of wolves.

It is a true place of pilgrimage for lovers of this animal. In any of the towns that make it up you can hear conversations that revolve around the Iberian wolf and the sighting of wolves in the Sierra de la Culebra.

The most visited observation point is located between Villardeciervos and Boya, which is accessed through the ZA-912 highway. You will recognize it because there is a parking space. From there you will have a complete view of the plains.

Although the most visited places for observation are the regions of Sanabria, where the image of the wolf is found in every corner, and the Carballeda, the wolf spreads throughout the mountain range. In fact, you can also see it in the regions of Tábara, Alba and Aliste. And even in the Montesinhos Natural Park From Portugal.

Without a doubt, the Sierra de la Culebra is the PLACE to observe the Iberian wolf in Spain, and you can't miss the Iberian wolf sighting activity in the Sierra de la Culebra guided by true local experts in its ethology, the true wolf sanctuary of the Iberian Peninsula.

2. Sierra de Andújar: interior paradise of Jaén

In the south, only about 20 or 30 specimens move between Andalusia and Castilla La Mancha. If it weren't for their traces, footprints or remains of excrement, we could not even know of their existence.  

This small group finds refuge in the most hidden places in Sierra Morena. That is why there has been launched a Life project for the conservation of the Iberian wolf, which is leaving very good feelings among the local population, increasing by two thirds the population that is in favor of its conservation.

It is possible that in this Natural Park you will hear howls and even, if it is your lucky day, see a specimen. Experts place this species in the north of the Park, on the road that leads to Solana del Pino.

Another good option to follow their footprints is to travel the road that starts from the detour of The Peñallana Vineyards, leading up to The Centenillo, an old mining town exploited by the English. Very close to here you have the best rural house to stay on a farm in Vilches, The Added, which has brave bulls. Take the opportunity to stay here if you are Andalusian, since you have a 25% discount.

Look at the brave bull that looks out the window. WOW!

Whichever route you choose, you must drive with caution because there are areas where the Iberian lynx, a species on the verge of extinction, but after 2 intense decades of work its population exceeds 800 Iberian lynxes, from the 94 that existed in 2002. Although the majority of specimens are distributed between Doñana and Andújar, the majority are found in the Sierra de Andújar, whose specimens cross the road with some regularity, since Despeñaperros forms a unit with the Sierra de Andújar, this being a natural corridor for them.

We are convinced that the wolf is going to follow the same path as the lynx, thanks to the work being done with the Life Wolf Conservation Project, reflected in videos like this.

3. The Natural Park Despeñaperros: the gorge with history (Jaén)

The Iberian wolf that lives in the Andújar mountains also finds refuge in the caves that mark this unknown natural space of Despeñaperros.

Its 7,500 hectares of surface are a larder for predatory species due to its important population of deer, fallow deer, wild boar and rabbit.

You can access the Park through the roads of Burnt Village, Santa Elena and Miranda del Rey. Once there, between waiting and waiting, I recommend that you explore the Cave of the Dolls and visit the impressive Cimbarra waterfall, a privileged space to also observe the great birds of Andalusia, like eagles and vultures, and where you can stay in the rural house La Cimbarra, a typical house in the area.

La Cimbarra in the rainy season © Esteban Ureña

Don't forget to visit the old roman road that the Romans crossed, known as the Empedraillo, which will surely have stepped on the occasional specimen of the Iberian wolf. Going down the Roman road, you can see the Mesa del Rey hill, where the 3 Christian kings, Alfonso VIII, Sancho El Fuerte and Pedro II, camped the night before fighting the great battle of Navas de Tolosa. A place, without a doubt, with a lot of lived history. Take a look to do some of the activities that we propose in Sierra Morena or the information about the castle and battle routes that took place in Jaén.

4. The Sierra de Cardeña y Montoro Natural Park in Córdoba: natural fauna refuge

The movie was filmed in this mountain range Between Wolfs, based on the true story of a boy, Marcos Pantoja, who was abandoned and grew up with a pack of wolves in Sierra Morena after discovering a wolf pack and playing with the wolves, he was accepted by them. He lived with wolves for 12 years of his life, until he was discovered by the Civil Guard. Here he tells you himself:

If you are a movie buff, and if not also, I advise you to follow the filmed itinerary, which crosses the Sierra de Cardeña, the village of El Cerezo and access the loggers' path to the Obejo bridge on the Yeguas River.

This bridge marks the border between the civilized world and the territory of the Iberian wolf.

The Obejo Bridge over the Yeguas River 

5. The Sierra de Hornachuelos Natural Park, the Sierra Morena pasture (Córdoba)

Almost a decade ago, in 2008, wolves that came from packs from the Sierra de Andújar crossed the Yeguas River, the natural border between Jaén and Córdoba, to the Sierra de Cardeña. After passing through a natural corridor Located between Córdoba capital and Obejo, the wolves reached an area between Villaviciosa and Espiel, where they found a flock of sheep.

© Esteban Urena

It is not a strange fact. Wolves are capable of traveling great distances in a single day to find food.

There were those who assured that this group was established in Hornachuelos, in the Sierra Córdoba, which would guarantee the survival of the species in the Parks that form the Dehesas de Sierra Morena Biosphere Reserve. But since then his whereabouts have been unknown.  

Here in Córdoba, you can enjoy different Adventure activities, which are compatible with the search for the trace of the Iberian wolf. And where there are some rural houses and hostels It is well worth staying.

6. The Natural Park Alcudia Valley and Sierra Madrona, between cistus and strawberry trees (Ciudad Real)

Located north of the Sierra de Andújar, it forms a natural corridor with it and with the Despeñaperros Natural Park. As it has fewer population centers, it is an enclave more suitable for the expansion of the Iberian wolf.

You have to access through the Sierra de Andújar, in the direction of Sanctuary of the Virgin of the Head. Once in Solana del Pino take the road that leads to Fuencaliente, where the spectacular route to Las Lastras.

© Esteban Urena

Solana del Pino It is a reference place for the wolf. Annually they celebrate the Emlobados days, in which the greatest experts in the conservation of the Iberian wolf are cited.

look at this pretty rural house in Sierra Madrona to stay while you enter its mountains.

It is not on the map but to finish with the South, we have to mention the case of Estremadura, where the Iberian wolf is still very present, where it occupied most of the region until the end of the 20th century, it is present in a multitude of myths and legends and even in the name of towns such as Lobón:

NOW WE ARE GOING TOWARDS THE NORTH OF THE PENINSULA:

In it rest of the Peninsula, the situation is very different. The species, after having crossed the Duero, has advanced from the north to the center, where they wait to make the leap to the south.

In this expansion it has come to establish itself in recent years in:

7. National Park Sierra de Guadarrama, pure landscape (Madrid-Segovia)

The wolves of the center of the Peninsula have more life in society than those of the south. And more so in a National Park recently declared as such and of enormous beauty:

Apart from the mountains of Madrid and Segovia, they have been seen in Navacerrada, El Escorial, Guadarrama and some have even arrived to the outskirts of urbanizations on the outskirts of Madrid.

Don't miss this one rural house in Guadarrama with rating 10. Incredible.

From this settlement they move to neighboring provinces such as Guadalajara, where its presence has been confirmed both in the Northern Sierra as in the Alto Tajo. Also in territories further away from Cuenca and Teruel.

8. Sierra de Gredos Regional Park: the great granite mass (Ávila)

The wolf has been sighted for the first time in this area in Navarredonda de Gredos and Navadiós, which constitutes a great news for the recovery of the species. It also clarifies that the species travels south to join the survivors of Sierra Morena.

Look at this rural house in Navarredonda de Gredos. It is unique.

9. Sierra de la Demanda, old disputes over beautiful lands in Burgos

The wolf is present in the vicinity of Burgos towns such as Espinosa de los Monteros, Canicosa de la Sierra or Palacios de la Sierra. And in the Rioja part, in the vicinity of Villavelayo.

Another area of La Rioja where wolves have invaded is the Najerilla Valley, in towns such as Canales de la Sierra, Ventrosa, Brieva de Cameros and Viniegras de Arriba y Abajo, very close to the Picos de Urbión.

© Esteban Urena

10. Natural Park Somiedo: the game is between wolves and bears (Asturias)

Possibly, it is the Natural Park with the greatest ecological value on the Peninsula and an example of sustainable development of reference throughout Europe. Not in vain, it is Biosphere Reserve and a real refuge for the Iberian wolf, despite having to share the territory with the largest predator of the Iberian fauna, the grizzly.

From the town of Salience, in the heart of Somiedo, a track leads you to the top of Farrapona. From there you can start the Los Lagos route, the most beautiful in the Park., where the howl shares space with nature.

Saliencia Lake © Esteban Ureña

Although if you have patience, many naturalists opt for the Prince's Viewpoint, which is reached from the municipality of The Peral.

But, without a doubt, the best place where to see iberian wolf inside the park is the Tibleus forest. Located on the northern slope of the Sierra de la Palombera, it is near the Gurugú peak. It's a wild beech restricted access where there are no paths to travel it.

Legend has it, according to Carles Castell, that the name Somiedo comes from the cry of a countryman crossing this forest in the middle of the night. Stopping his horse at the edge of a cliff, he uttered an anguished “so” as he felt very “scared.”

For this reason (I won't tell you more...) and because you must request a special permit granted by the Natural Park, the majority of naturalists carry out their sightings from the other side of the valley, in the area of the slopes of Michu, near Falguera.

In general, the mountainous areas that border the Cantabrian Mountains are spaces where wolves can survive due to their proximity to the Picos de Europa. The Sierra del Cuera is a clear example.

With this activity to get to know Somiedo You will have three days to try to spot the wolf within the Natural Park.

11. Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park, the “great barrier” between the Pre-Pyrenees and the Pyrenees (Lérida)

Catalonia is different. The wolves that live in this community They do not come from the Iberian wolf, but of the Italian-French species, as genetic studies show.

© Esteban Urena

The wolf cataloging As a protected species in France, it favored its passage through the French country until reaching the Catalan Pyrenees, where today between 12 and 20 specimens live scattered throughout the Cadí Massif and bordering areas of the regions of Alto Urgell, Cerdaña, Alto Solsonés, Alto Berguedá or Alto Ripollés.

12. Gorbeia Natural Park: the Basque mountain with a cross (Álava)

The Basque Country is a transit point for the wolf. It constantly enters without establishing itself, settling only in the area of the Gorbeia Massif (Alava).

He Valderejo Natural Park (Álava), shaped by the Purón River to the south of the Alaveses valleys, is another privileged space where see iberian wolf in winter.

13.Espace natural do Courel, one of the Galician lungs (Lugo)

The wolf extends throughout Lugo. It even dares to visit areas near the coast. They have been sighted in locations such as To Pastoriza, Xove, Muras and Friol. But the place that has the highest density of specimens is the Sierra do Courel.

In this enclave the wolf ecotourism, an initiative that allows tourists to carry out activities of coexistence with the wolf. Always with respect to the species. The important thing is not to disturb the breeding groups in order to prevent them from leaving the territory.

If you like see Iberian wolves runs through the Devesa de Rogueira. You have to start from Seoane to Esperante. From there you cross the River Lor and leave the camp on the right. From here begins an ascent of almost 4 kilometers until you find on the right a detour that leads to the Alto do Couto and Visuña.

Usual fogs in the Sierra do Courel (Lugo)

After traveling 4.6 km you arrive at the base of the Mount Piapáxaro, 1,611 meters high. If you take the track that ascends to its summit you will be able to contemplate the best Panoramic views of the Sierra do Courel.

14. Natural Park O Invernadeiro: in a “wild” state (Orense)

Experts say that they are the only wolf specimens that maintain the ancestral customs of the species. They define them as the wildest Of the peninsula. The explanation is that their diet is based solely on hunting wild animals.

The study of this behavior is a key piece for the conservation of the species.

15. Saja-Besaya Natural Park, fauna and flora in their purest form (Cantabria)

In this Park, thick beech and oak forests mix with extensive meadows. What constitutes a perfect habitat for the Iberian wolf, which shares space with the bear, just like in Somiedo.

Extinct in the 70s, today its population has fully recovered and extends throughout the Park. For the safety of the species, naturalists do not reveal the movements of the canid, which prevents a census from taking place.

What is clear is that wolf attacks on livestock have multiplied in recent years. Herds from the Liébana region or the Palencia mountains easily reach here. The area they most frequent is the Cabuérniga valley and the vicinity of Los Tojos.

Access these places through the CA 280 highway, which starts from Cabezón de la Sal to the Palombera pass (1260 m). Nearby is the top of Ozcaba, from where you can start two routes descendants:

The one with the least difficulty takes you to Bárcena the Mayor. It runs along an old Roman road, although in some areas the path gets lost.

At the other end of Ozcaba is the beginning of the longest route, which goes down to Los Tojos or Saja.

Both routes end in the valley, a privileged place to wait for the appearance of a wolf on the nearby slopes.

When you finally see the herd appear running down the slope, the feeling is indescribable. Don't you think so?

16. Fuentes Carrionas and Fuente Cobre-Montaña Palentina Natural Park: the peaks and ridges of Palencia

In the Palentina mountain, between Cervera de Pisuerga and Barruelo de Santullán (Brañosera), it is possible to spot wolves with relative ease. Especially in harsh winters, when they go down to the towns in search of food.

However, by far, the largest population centers They're in:

17. National Park Picos de Europa: the first protected area in Spain (part of León)

The wolf population of this National Park, together with the Zamora Sierra de la Culebra, represents 60 % of the total that lives in the Peninsula.

The highest concentration of family groups is found in the Riaño mountains (Lion). But it is not the only wolf area in the Picos de Europa.

Mother and cub in Riaño © Andoni Canela

In the mountains of Cosgaya and the valley of Liébana, Camaleño, Cillorigo and Bejes, framed in the Liébana region of Cantabria, there are also specimens.

So choose an elevated position on any of its mountains (Coriscao, Altos de Valdeón...) and wait for the herd to appear in the valley.

But also pay attention to the wolf areas of Los Ancares, and La Cabrera, in León, and even in the Sierra del Teleno. The presence of the wolf is more than palpable here, as well as the recovery of the brown bear in the Cantabrian part.


Book your experience to see the Iberian wolf with experts

After what has been said, you will think that the wolf is back, but the truth is that never left

If you see it even once, be satisfied. Enough with that. After all, in the final in South Africa we only need to score one goal to be happy.

It's your turn, you decide which of these Natural Spaces to visit, but based on experience in wolf ecotourism, don't forget to visit Zamora. 

Travel to any of these places and tell me if any wolves have crossed your path.


16 comments

  1. In many of these parks their presence is noticeable, although scarce. It is very difficult to observe them, although with a good guide it is surely possible to see them in freedom.

    All the best

  2. Hello Alejandro, I will tell you that I have visited the Gorbeia Massif area a lot and it is very difficult to spot it. I won't tell you that there isn't any, but I will say that it is an area where the wolf is passing through, as you say.

    Greetings and congratulations.

  3. He forgot to add Los Ancares and La Cabrera, in León, to the list of wolf parks and areas, although the presence of this predator is more than evident in all the mountains of this province. It is already wreaking havoc on the livestock herd and in many towns the subject is talked about as much as in Zamora. Just as the recovery of the Brown Bear in the Cantabrian Sea has been proven and its presence even in unusual altitudes such as the Sierra del Teleno and La Cabrera where there have been recent sightings, demonstrating that the platigrade is moving increasingly southwards, towards Portugal. Your report is very good and thanks for sharing it. Greetings.

  4. Very interesting and beautiful text. I love the comment about South Africa's goal, because it is caustic, although it is very real -unfortunately-

  5. I have seen them in Puerto de Palombera in Cantabria and it is an indelible memory. I don't know why they want to take this away from us, it's part of us, it's our heritage.

  6. Hello. The largest population of wolves in Spain, one in four, is in León. Although it is slightly amended with the last lines, it gives the impression for those who do not know, that in León there are few wolves and very localized, when it covers all of our territory except the most urbanized, at least for the moment although it goes down to the towns. Otherwise he lent me the report, I know many of those enclaves. Greetings.

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