For a Barça fan, Koeman's goal is not a memory, it is a painkiller. Since that match he stopped biting his nails in the finals.

For those who have visited the Bieszczady mountain range, this enclave of Poland It is not a tourist destination, it is a natural drug that eliminates stress. It seems like Cruyff had patented it.

Bieszczady, a paradise for hikers

Bieszczady is a mountain range with a valley vocation. On the border that separates Poland From Ukraine and Slovakia rises this mountain range that does not stand out for its steep peaks, but for its extensive pastures and mountain forests.

On its slopes you won't be able to play a game of seven-a-side football, but when you reach the top you will believe you are in Anfield. Or in San Siro, if you come from Italy.

The hours don't fly, they don't even run, in Bieszczady. They go at a slow trot through this siesta spot. Here the pace of life is slow. Visitors who travel the 300 long kilometers of marked paths that cross these mountains, also known as the Polonini, know this well.

In its National Park, the most visited area, hikers enjoy various ecotourism activities: they ascend the Tarnica, cross the ridge of the Carynska polonina and reach tranquility in their mountain refuges.

Trekking through Poland: 10 Days that will change the way you see the world

I propose a ten day tourdecorated so that you can do it too.

1. The Bieszczady Sea: Lesko-Myczków

In tennis, a good serve is half a set. When traveling, a good starting point also plays a role. The best place to start your journey through the Polonini is Lesko.

There is a direct link from historic Krakow. Lesko, located on the banks of the San River, is integrated into the Bieszczady mountain range, although it is not yet part of the National Park. From there, you can take the path that leads along the banks of the river to Lake Solina.

The duration of the journey, about 17 kilometers, barely exceeds 5 hours.

Lake Solina © www.dzikie-bieszczady.pl

This first part of the route is simple and you will not reach much altitude; It is not advisable to get tired on the first day.

If you want to burn more carbohydrates for your next visit, keep in mind that Lesko is part of the European long-distance route E8, one of the longest trails in Europe, with 4,700 kilometers. If you are a marathoner, it would take you more than 100 days to complete it.

If you are not, continue on this route, where halfway you will pass through the village of Zwierzyn, located in a bend just before reaching the Solina dam. Here you must cross the river to continue.

You will finish the itinerary in Myczków, next to the artificial lake Solina, which is nicknamed the Bieszczady Sea due to its size.  

2. The first ascents: Myczków-Terka

In this section of the route you will enjoy magnificent views of the lake, since you will basically surround it on its right bank.

Throughout these 18 kilometers you will cross small meadows, pastures and discover a mosaic of houses dotted between groves of fir trees. The road is a continuous up and down small hills.

Views of the San River

After ascending to the first peak, the trail descends to the small municipality of Wołkowyja, located next to the lake, and then begins another gentle climb to Gorzanka.

From any of these heights you will see wonderful landscapes of this enclave, the prelude to the wildest and most unknown Bieszczady.

3. Between forests and meadows: Terka-Stare Siołeither

The next section is harder, so it is advisable to rest well before facing it.

In Terka you will begin the real ascent towards the Polonini, the rounded, meadow-covered peaks of the Bieszczady Mountains.

Halfway through the journey you will enter the National Park. From here, you only have one last push until you reach the top of Mieczyslaw Orłowicz, at 1,099 meters high, where three trails converge.

It is a good place to rest, after the 16 kilometers you have walked, and enjoy the views of extensive meadows and beech forests that extend to the horizon.

The first promotions

If it's getting late, deviate from the route about 4 kilometers to reach the village of Stare Sioło, where you can spend the night.

4. The `Chatka Puchatka' shelter: Stare Sioło-Brzegi Górne

This day will be part of your best vacation days. Not in vain, you will visit the Polish Carpathians, with their spectacular mountain meadows.

Before taking your steps towards them you will have to climb again the 4 kilometers that lead to the M. Orłowicz peak. Take the main track from there.

The effort is worth it.  

From this point, a road full of curves crosses several peaks of the National Park. You will cross a mountain ridge of more than 7 kilometers until you reach your destination.

When you are missing four for the town of Brzegi Górne you will reach the mountain refuge known as Chatka Puchatka, where you can rest, photograph the wonderful surroundings and even spend the night if you are one of those who fight discomfort with contempt.

mountain refuge Chatka Puchatka

This mountain refuge, with capacity for 20 people, lacks water, toilets and electricity. Still, it's worth staying to watch the sunset or sunrise.

If you are not one of those who are enthralled by these things, go down to the Brzegi camp or the Przełęcz Wyżnia camp.

5. In the heart of the Park: Brzegi Górne-Ustrzyki Górne

You've covered almost half the journey, so you deserve a reward.

As a reward, you have a short journey ahead of you, just 10 kilometers, in which you will enjoy the landscape.

You will start with a 3 kilometer climb to the top of Carynska polonina. Afterwards, there is nothing left but a gentle descent for just 3 hours.

You will travel longitudinally along the entire ridge of the mountain until you reach Ustrzyki Górne, where I propose the next stop along the way. Its location, at a confluence of roads, allows you to admire the peaks of the surrounding mountains from there.

Ustrzyki Górne is home to one of the largest tourist centers in Bieszczady, so you will have no problem finding accommodation.

Furthermore, there is located the Bieszczady National Park Address, as well as a small museum about mountain tourism, a post office, several shops and a rescue station.

The heart of the National Park

6. Witnesses of the rut: Ustrzyki Górne-Muczne

Welcome to the queen stage. During it you will tour the mythical settings of the southern Poland.

In the very heart of the National Park, and a few kilometers from the border with Ukraine, is the highest peak of the polonini, 1,346 meters high, called Tarnica.

Numerous beacons mark the path as it is prohibited to abandon it. Thick virgin beech and fir trees will accompany you in the lower areas of this section.

Abruptly, mountain meadows will emerge on which countless rounded peaks rise.

The summit of Tarnica It is unmistakable since it is crowned by a cross several meters high that can be seen perfectly from several kilometers in advance. I recommend doing this route in autumn, since the number of tourists decreases considerably and also, with a little luck and if you get up early, you will witness a spectacle that you will remember for the rest of your days: the deer rut in the Carpathians.

View of Tarnica peak

Every autumn, numerous males of this species arrive to these mountain meadows from the valleys to establish their hierarchy against their competitors and thus be able to gain the favor of the females. The echo of their roars and the clash of antlers can be heard in every corner.

Just like they are heard in the Extremadura pasture. Sign up for this rutting listening activity in Cáceres and check it out.

Before heading towards Tarnica, pay attention to the weather conditions. The wind or a sudden snowfall can make a peak of these characteristics and in these latitudes an almost impregnable colossus for a hiker.

Bukowe Berdo forests

After summiting Tarnica, leave the main route again to head to Bukowe Berdo, a slightly lower peak. From there, take the path that goes out to the right until you reach Muczne, an isolated village of wooden cabins that makes you feel wild, where you can sleep.

Sometimes you have to be tired to be happy.  

7. The land of the bison: Muczne-Dwernik

Now that you have known the heart of Bieszczady you can begin your way back.

To resume the path you left the previous day you will have to climb the top of Bukowe Berdo again.

Once there, instead of retracing your steps, you can descend the opposite side of the mountain to, after crossing the bridge over the Wołosatka River, reach the Widelki camp. There, in addition to the shelters, you will find a small bison reserve in which twelve of these specimens reside.

A small monument pays tribute to them and recalls the origins of their reintroduction to Bieszczady.

Don't miss the opportunity to learn how to photograph this magnificent animal with this activity to photograph bison in Poland.

Matriarchal group of bison with their offspring

It is also possible that along this route you will see some species of birds of prey such as the golden eagle or the spotted eagle.

Another of the birds of prey that you can observe is the Ural owl, which in spring builds its nest in hollows of trunks.

In autumn, the red fruit of the rowan trees that cover the lower areas of the Bukowe ripens. Its tone constitutes a magnificent contrast with that of the meadows.

The dense coniferous forests in Bukowe

3 kilometers from Widelki you will have the opportunity to rest again in a typical mountain refuge. The Przysłup Carynski koliba is built on the site of the former village of Carynskie, which does not exist today.

You can stop to eat, admire the views or rest in this picturesque valley where currently only bears, wolves or deer reside. Can you imagine finding a surprise like this on your way?

After this hard day, more than 7 hours of walking, you will arrive at Dwernik. You will have already left the National Park, although the landscape will remain equally admirable.

Mountain stream in the upper area of the NP in Muczne

8. Hulskie Untouchable Forest: Dwernik-Polana

If you cross the upper course of the San River you will begin a climb, perfectly signposted, in the direction of Polana. It will take less than 5 hours. Between the start and the finish line make a stop at the shelter known as Chata Socjologa, a beautiful wooden cabin nestled in a forest clearing. Here, a warm bonfire or a snack will delight the walker.

At this altitude, around 900 meters, the forests show all their splendor.  

Chata Socjologa Shelter, near the Hulskie Reserve

Along these dirt trails, which cross the strictly protected forest of the small Hulskie Nature Reserve, you are more than likely to find footprints or droppings of bears, bison and wolves, animals present in these mountains but very elusive.

In Hulskie there is no logging or removal of fallen logs or dead trees, so if the path is blocked you will have to avoid the obstacle.

If you are lucky, you will surprise another of the inhabitants of these forests, in this case the common grvol, a beautiful bird related to the capercaillie, although smaller in size. They are very shy and at the slightest sign of danger they fly to climb the treetops and disappear.

Golden, Sparrow and Spotted Eagles can also be seen. Roe deer and deer are, without a doubt, the easiest to see. And on almost every waterway you are likely to see a dam built by beavers.

Roe deer grazing in the Hulskie Reserve

The day will end in a beautiful valley in this part of Bieszczady called the Otryt Mountains. where Polana is located, a small town founded in the 15th century, which gives it a place in the history of the region.

9. The Rosolin Grotto: Polana-Telesnica

From Polana, after spending the night, you can continue the route ascending along the banks of the Czarny stream, which flows into Lake Solina.

But before starting, go to the area of Roselin, around the departure town, where a beautiful watercourse that slides between ravines and beech forests has carved a wonderful grotto in the rock. It is a good place to spot dippers and amphibians on its banks.

About 3 kilometers from Polana you will find the town of Chrewt, located in a bay of Lake Solina. It is another good point to make a stop.

Here you can practice water sports and, if the water level is low, you can see at the bottom of the lake the foundations of an old mill and a farm, vestiges of the old town.

In Spain there are also reservoirs that hold surprises for us, and that are ideal for water sports. In the Natural Park of Cazorla, Segura and las Villas you can rent a kayak in the Tranco reservoir to explore it at your leisure.

Views of Lake Solina

After leaving Chrewt behind, you will enter the picturesque Paniszow Valley, where the livestock of this area practice transhumance in winter.

In approximately four hours, you will have reached Telesnica Oszwarowa, the penultimate stop on the tour.

10. Back to civilization: Telesnica Oszwarowa-Ustrzyki Dolne

On this last day you will only have to go up and down a couple of hills and your walk will take you to the end of the itinerary.

It will not take you more than 4 hours to travel this section in which you leave the margins of Lake Solina behind before reaching your destination.

Ustrzyki is located a few kilometers from the border with Ukraine, so you will clearly appreciate the influences of its Soviet past.

Chaotic markets with local products, clothing, souvenir shops and a coming and going of women, who try to earn extra money by selling goods, alcohol and typical Ukrainian sweets confirm that you have arrived in the eastern part of Bieszczady.

Viewpoint 5 km from Ustrziky Dolne

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You always remember the first kiss more than the last, but the last one is usually given to the love of your life.

When the butterflies stop fluttering in the stomach, passion changes strategy so that holding hands is the preamble to a crazy night.

At first, other tourist destinations may excite you more, but you won't want to leave Bieszczady.

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