The Remaining Blue Fir Forests: the Botanic Treasure of the Mediterranean

Seen from afar, this fir forest is the perfect backdrop for a fairytale. Seen upclose, this forest feels like a Christmas wonderland.

Wanna see it?

In between Spain and Morocco there are seven fir or pinsapo forests, that are so beautiful, you'll wonder why you didn't study botany. Even if you are a mine engineer, teacher or a construction worker, Nattule gives you the opportunity to enjoy this unique plant species, deep rooted in the mountain range of Andalusia.

The pinsapo forest, a very unique ecosystem, is located in Cadiz and Malaga, and a very specific area of Morocco. Here I'll explain to you the 7 different fir forests that you can visit.

1. Grazalema Pinsapo forest

The fir forest of the Sierra del Pinar, expanding from 300 hectares, is the most well-known forest in Spain. It's a large forest filled with fir, oak and maple trees.

The fir forest upholsters the northern slope, where there are fir trees of all sizes and ages. You'll find all of these fir trees in an excellent state of preservation, which makes them unique.

Now, you will want to know how to get there.

It´s simple. From the town of Grazalema, take a detour from A-372 to CA-53 until you reach the sign indicating Pinsapar Trail. Here you will find a fence. In order to cross it, you will need to get a permit. This permit will allow you to reach the highest point of the slope, which is where you will find an amazing view of the fir forest.

This route is fairly easy. It begins with a steep slope on the first stretch, followed by a downward, long trail through the fir forest until you reach Benamahoma (from the Arab word Ibn Muhammad, meaning “Sons of Muhammad”).

Keep in mind that you will need a car at the end of the journey in Benamahoma.

2. Sierra de las Nieves Pinsapo Forest

The Sierra de las Nieves hosts the biggest population of Spanish firs in the Iberian Peninsula. It covers 2,000 hectares, located across the villages of Parauta, Tolox, Ronda and Yunquera. This Natural Park will soon become a National Park, which is the top environmental recognition given in Spain. The pinsapo forests are clustered along the marked hiking trails.

One of the best examples of a fir forest is Puerto Saucillo, in Yunquera, that borders around the trail, and is easy to hike. The path is about 4 hours, if you go at a relaxed pace. You can begin this hike at the natural lookout of the port until you reach the highest peak of Malaga, the Turret.

Another circular trail is the Escalereta Pinsapo, shorter than the other hike. One of its points of interest is the Natural Monument, which the route is named after.

Further up we find the Puntal de la Mesa pinsapo, also called The octopus. It's 300 years old and has the expected age conditions, but it is still a majestic example of survival.

3. Other Pinsapo Forests of Ronda

In addition to the three big populations mentioned, there are little scattered Spanish fir forest areas on various locations in the mountainous area of Ronda. The villages hosting those old pinsapo forests are Istán, Monda, Ojén and El Burgo.

In addition to Spanish firs, there are also other species, such as the Holy Chestnut of Istan, a unique tree. It has been said that King Fernando, ¨El Católico¨, once held mass under the shade of his tree.

A route to visit those pinsapo forests begins on the same path that connects San Pedro de Alcántara with Ronda. You have to go through the Natural Park, towards the recreational area of The Quejigales, located 15 kilometers away from the exit.

The semicircular route, reaches the Cañada del Cuerno, where you will find the first pinsapo tree. Afterwards, you will walk along the Puerto de los Pilones and El Torrecilla. You have the option of returning using the same path, or by the Cañada de las Animas, that goes through another aged, but impressive forest.

4. Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja Pinsapo Forest

In Sierra Bermeja, just 15 kilometers away from Estepona, you can find the third natural population of Spanish firs in Andalusia.

It is a smaller forest, but very original since it stems from the biggest peridotite rock outcrop of the world. These reddish rocks, with a magmatic origin, caused the development of heavy metal grounds, which makes it difficult for the vegetation to grow. That's not a problem. As one famous Spanish writer said: “In Spain, the one who resists is the one who wins.”

The characteristics of the soil in this mountainous area allow for a high number of exclusive plants, like the fir forest. That, along with other small and scattered trees in other points of Sierra Bermeja, especially the Cerro Abantos, constitutes the only Spanish fir population growing on peridotite rocks.

Although it's small, this Spanish fir forest may be one of the most well-known and visited forests by the general public because of its location near the coast. The high amount of visitors is due to its easy access by road, as well as the fact that it was the first fir forest visited by Edmond Boissier, who discovered this species in 1837.

To get there you have to take the MA-557 road, up to Royals Peak. After two kilometers, a sharp curve begins the hour long trail, known as the “Pinsapos Walk”, which goes through the forest on a round trail.

It's also possible to do the The Realillos route that connects with the previous route and reaches the Mirador de Salvador Guerrero, where you can see the Rif and Gibraltar on a very clear day.

5. Pinsapo Forest Outside its Natural Distribution: Granada

Very small, but worth the visit; this fir forest is made up of scarcely three groups of ten scattered trees in a half hectare of land.

These plants were brought into being from an experiment that took place during the sixties, inside the Natural Park of the Sierra de Huétor, in the Umbria Ravine.

© Nacho Nuñez, exhibitiononline.es

Nowadays, this population is well preserved and is listed as a singular grove.

6. Pinsapo Forest Outside of Andalusia: Orcajo

The most important fir forest outside of Andalusia is located in the Aragonese village of Orcajo (Zaragoza).

This forest dates back from the beginning of the 20th century, when a successful planting of firs took place in that village.

On the mount called “Fuentes del Villar” you will have a fantastic view of the basin of the Gallocanta Lagoon and the Jiloca Valley, with its beautiful promenades.

7. Pinsapo Forest of the National Park of Talassemtane: Morocco

This fir forest, which is the largest in the world and is the best preserved, belongs to the Mediterranean Intercontinental Biosphere Reserve.

You can reach it by Chefchaouen or by Bab Taza. From Chefchaouen, there is a trail nearby the Hotel Atlas, which connects with Azilane. The fir is the main feature that defines this route.

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So now you know, you won't see the fir trees while drinking a beer by the beach, nor on a seafront promenade during your morning jog, but it is definitely worth a visit.

Please write me if you have any doubts or concerns on where to find pinsapo trees.

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